In short: duck breast (magret) sliced very thin is the classy guest at a raclette night. Grilled for a few moments on the top plate, in its own fat, then slipped into a pan of cheese, it makes a huge impression for minimal effort. Two things to know: the word “magret” is reserved by EU regulations for the breast of a duck fattened for foie gras, and while many French people like it pink, health authorities group duck with poultry. For pregnant women and vulnerable people, cook it through.

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What exactly is a magret?

EU Regulation No 543/2008 on the marketing of poultry meat defines “magret” (or “maigret”) as the breast fillet of ducks and geese raised for foie gras, with the skin and subcutaneous fat covering the muscle, but without the deep pectoral muscle (the tenderloin). According to the same text, these ducks are Muscovy ducks (Cairina moschata) or crosses between Muscovy and common duck (Anas platyrhynchos), in other words Moulard ducks. So a duck breast that hasn’t been fattened is not a magret, even if it looks like one.

Hence what makes magret so charming at a raclette: a nice layer of fat under the skin, which melts on the plate and flavors the meat.

ID cardDuck breast (magret)
DefinitionBreast fillet of a duck or goose fattened for foie gras, with skin and fat (Regulation (EC) No 543/2008)
Ducks concernedMuscovy or Moulard (Muscovy × common duck cross)
Cut for racletteVery thin slices, fat left on or partly trimmed
FlavorRed meat, rich, melting fat
Recommended cooking74 °C internal temperature for duck pieces (Health Canada); pink = a matter of taste, not for vulnerable people

Why duck breast goes with raclette

Duck breast tastes like red meat, more intense than chicken, and its fat crisps up like bacon. Up against melted cheese, it holds its own where a milder meat would disappear. To our taste, it’s superb with a Raclette du Valais AOP, and even better with a smoked raclette, which recalls smoked duck breast. A peppercorn raclette suits it very well too. Some guests add a touch of fig jam or onion jam on the plate: that’s a foodie’s opinion, worth a try.

How to choose your duck breast

  • The name: “magret” on the label means a fattened duck. Duck “fillet” or “breast” refers to a different, leaner meat.
  • The look: deep red flesh, white and dry skin, no smell. That’s butcher basics.
  • Slicing: the thinner it is, the better it cooks. A tip from our team: put the duck breast in the freezer for 30 minutes, and it slices much more easily with a sharp knife. You can also ask your butcher to slice it.
  • The fat: leave a little on each slice for flavor, but trim off the excess. On the plate, a whole duck breast releases a lot of fat.

How much to plan and how to cook it

As a rule of thumb from our team, one thinly sliced duck breast is enough for three or four people if it’s added to a cured meat platter. If it’s the only meat, plan on one duck breast for two. Lay the slices on the very hot plate, fat side first, flip them as soon as the flesh changes color, and keep paper towels handy: the fat is going to run.

Pink or well done? What the authorities say

  • Duck is poultry. Health Canada groups it with chicken and turkey and gives 74 °C internal temperature for pieces (breasts, legs). ANSES reminds us to cook poultry thoroughly and not to eat it raw.
  • Pink is a matter of taste. In France, duck breast is often served pink. Just know that it isn’t the food safety recommendation.
  • Pregnant women: Santé publique France advises against raw or undercooked meat during pregnancy, because of toxoplasmosis. “Well-done” meat has lost its red color at the center. Same advice, in our opinion, for young children, older people and people with weakened immune systems.
  • Keep raw and cooked apart: ANSES advises cleaning the cutting board, the dish and the utensils that touched raw meat. At the table, one pair of tongs for raw meat, one fork for eating.

Which wine to serve with duck breast and raclette

Duck breast calls for a red, raclette for a light red: Pinot Noir reconciles the two, better than anything else in our opinion. A Gamay from Savoie served cool is great too. And for anyone torn between red and rosé, Œil-de-Perdrix, a Pinot Noir rosé, is a lovely compromise.

In the pantry

Back to the pantry for the rest of the platter. On the grill plate, duck breast teams up with thinly sliced beef and chicken. On the cold platter, cured ham remains the great classic.

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Frequently asked questions

What’s the difference between a magret and a duck breast fillet?

According to EU Regulation No 543/2008, magret is the breast fillet of a duck or goose fattened for foie gras, sold with its skin and fat. A duck breast from a bird that wasn’t fattened is not a magret.

Can you eat duck breast pink at a raclette?

It’s a common matter of taste in France, but not the food safety recommendation: Health Canada groups duck with poultry, at 74 °C internal temperature. Pregnant women and vulnerable people should eat it well done.

How do you cut duck breast into thin slices?

Our tip: 30 minutes in the freezer to firm up the meat, then a long, sharp knife. You can also ask your butcher to slice it.

Which wine goes with duck breast and raclette?

In our opinion, a light Pinot Noir, a Gamay from Savoie served cool or an Œil-de-Perdrix from the Valais.

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