In short: smoked haddock, mackerel and herring are the smoked fish “with character”, brinier and bolder than salmon. They love potatoes, and so they love raclette. Haddock is smoked haddock, the fish; smoked herring ranges from heavily salted red herring to “mild” fillets, which even have a Label Rouge; for smoked mackerel, the label tells you whether it’s hot-smoked, and therefore cooked. Two rules: read the label to know whether the fish is cooked or not, and follow the advice of ANSES and Santé publique France, which advise pregnant women against smoked fish (listeria).

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Haddock, mackerel, herring: who’s who?

First, a useful distinction. Health Canada defines hot smoking as smoking long enough and hot enough to fully coagulate the proteins in the flesh: the fish is cooked. Cold smoking, on the other hand, doesn’t significantly coagulate those proteins: the fish stays raw, like smoked salmon. At a raclette night, that difference changes everything.

Haddock

In French, “haddock” isn’t the name of the species: it means smoked haddock (Melanogrammus aeglefinus, called églefin in French), borrowing the English name once the fish is smoked. Its fillets were long colored with annatto (E160b), hence their bright orange, Wikipedia notes, but you can also find undyed ones. In Scotland, the Arbroath smokie, a haddock salted and then smoked over a very hot fire, has been a protected geographical indication since 2004.

Smoked herring

Hareng saur is the common French name for salted, smoked herring (red herring), with a powerful smell. Less salted, it becomes a “bloater” (bouffi). The kipper, beloved by the British, is a herring split in two, salted and then cold-smoked. Boulogne-sur-Mer, whose prosperity has been tied to herring since the Middle Ages, made its preparation famous around the world. For more delicate palates, there are also “mild” smoked herring fillets, including a Label Rouge version (LA 04/11) overseen by the CAPS Qualité association, according to INAO.

Smoked mackerel

The oily fish par excellence, mackerel takes very well to smoking. Before serving it, check the label to see whether it’s hot-smoked, and therefore cooked: the label decides how you serve it.

FishWhat it isFlavorAt a raclette
HaddockSmoked haddock; Arbroath smokie PGI in ScotlandSmoky, salty, white fleshPoached then flaked, served hot
Smoked herringRed herring, bloater, kipper, mild fillets (Label Rouge LA 04/11)Very briny, more or less saltyAs fillets, cold, with potatoes
Smoked mackerelSalted and smoked mackerel; hot-smoked = cooked (check the label)Oily, powerfulFlaked over the potato

Why these smoked fish go with raclette

Herring and potatoes are a historic match: Wikipedia even notes that red herring pairs perfectly with warm potatoes. Add melted cheese and you get a Northern raclette, salty, smoky and comforting. To our taste, herring and mackerel, which are very powerful, call for a mild cheese like Raclette de Savoie IGP or a Tomme de Savoie. Poached haddock, more delicate, gets along very well with a Raclette du Valais AOP. Leave the smoked raclette aside: one smoky element is enough.

How to choose them

  • Hot- or cold-smoked: it’s the first thing to read on the label, to know whether the fish is cooked or not.
  • Salt: a traditional red herring is very salty. If your guests aren’t used to it, go for “mild” fillets.
  • Haddock color: the bright orange comes from a dye (annatto), not from the quality of the smoking. Undyed versions are paler.
  • Labels: the Label Rouge for mild smoked herring fillets, or the Arbroath smokie PGI for Scottish haddock.
  • The date: buy them shortly before the party and respect the use-by date.

How much to plan and how to serve them

These fish are powerful: as a rule of thumb from our team, 50 to 80 g per person is enough as a side, around a hundred grams if they replace the meat. Herring fillets are served cold, in pieces, with onion and a drizzle of oil. Hot-smoked mackerel gets flaked over the potato. For haddock, our advice is to poach it for a few minutes before the meal, flake it and serve it hot, ready to go under the cheese.

Listeria, pregnancy and storage

  • Vulnerable groups: ANSES advises pregnant women, people with weakened immune systems, people with certain cancers and those over 65 to avoid smoked fish. Santé publique France also lists it among the foods to avoid during pregnancy, and specifies that freezing doesn’t eliminate listeria.
  • Hot-smoked doesn’t mean risk-free: according to Health Canada, hot smoking reduces listeria, but the product can be recontaminated after it’s made.
  • Truly cooked through: the British and Scottish agencies (FSA and FSS) advise at-risk people to cook cold-smoked fish until it’s “steaming hot” all the way through. Simply warming it up isn’t enough.
  • Keep it cold: ANSES recommends a fridge at 4 °C and sticking to use-by dates and storage times after opening.
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Which wine to serve with smoked fish and raclette

Salt, smoke and fat: you need a wine with an edge. In our opinion, a dry Riesling stands up to herring and mackerel. A Sauvignon Blanc freshens up haddock. And the bubbles of a Crémant cleanse the palate between bites, which never hurts with such a powerful fish.

In the pantry

Back to the pantry to round out the table. For a milder smoky flavor, see our guides to smoked salmon and smoked trout. And on the seafood side, sea scallops grill on the top plate too.

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Frequently asked questions

What fish is “haddock” in French cooking?

It’s smoked haddock (Melanogrammus aeglefinus, églefin in French), often called by its English name once smoked. Its orange color traditionally comes from a dye, annatto.

What’s the difference between hot smoking and cold smoking?

According to Health Canada, hot smoking fully coagulates the proteins in the flesh: the fish is cooked. Cold smoking doesn’t significantly coagulate them: the fish stays raw.

Can pregnant women eat smoked fish?

ANSES and Santé publique France advise against smoked fish during pregnancy, because of listeria. For at-risk people, the British and Scottish agencies advise cooking cold-smoked fish until it’s steaming hot all the way through.

Which wine goes with smoked herring and raclette?

In our opinion, a dry Riesling, or a Crémant whose bubbles refresh the palate.

Sources